Grain Rain Food

Guyu Tea is spring tea harvested and processed around the Grain Rain solar term and is commonly known as “Second-Spring Tea.” A folk saying goes: “清明见芽，谷雨见茶”—at Qingming one sees the buds, at Grain Rain one sees the tea. Around Qingming, tea bushes have only just begun to sprout; by Grain Rain, those buds and young leaves have grown into harvestable tea. Guyu Tea is generally picked around the Grain Rain period, approximately between April 5 and April 20 on the Gregorian calendar. At this time, spring temperatures are moderate and rainfall is plentiful. After resting through the winter, tea bushes produce thick, vigorous buds and tender leaves rich in vitamins, amino acids, tea polyphenols, and other constituents.

Since ancient times, Guyu Tea has been especially cherished by scholars and cultivated drinkers. The Ming scholar Xu Cishu wrote in 《茶疏》: “清明太早，立夏太迟，谷雨前后，其时适中。” Wen Zhengming wrote: “谷雨乍过茶事好，鼎汤初沸有朋来。” The Ming writer Tian Yiheng recorded in 《煮泉小品》: “雨前茶芽白如雪，以虎跑泉烹之，兰香透玉瓯。” The Tongzhi-era 《通山县志》 of the Qing dynasty states: “谷雨前采茶，细如雀舌，曰‘雨前茶’。” Qing writer Zheng Banqiao also wrote: “正好清明连谷雨，一杯香茗坐其间。”

On the day of Grain Rain itself, tea farmers traditionally held that only leaves picked that very day could truly be called Guyu Tea, and that they had to be gathered in the morning. Some folk experts likewise maintain that only tea made from fresh leaves picked on the morning of Grain Rain qualifies as authentic Guyu Tea. According to folk belief, tea harvested that day could clear internal heat and brighten the eyes.

Guyu Tea carries a rich range of cultural meanings. First, clearing heat and warding off harmful influences. Folk tradition holds that tea drunk on Grain Rain can clear heat, repel evil influences, and brighten the eyes. Tea farmers likewise believe that leaves picked that day are not only fragrant and pure in flavor but also possess these beneficial qualities. In southern China, the custom of picking and drinking tea at Grain Rain remains widespread, accompanied by folk beliefs about its protective and health-giving effects. Second, praying for health. Spring teas such as pre-rain Longjing, Biluochun, Huangshan Maofeng, and Xinyang Maojian are enjoyed around this time. Rich in amino acids, vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients, they are traditionally described as helping to clear heat, brighten the eyes, inhibit bacteria, and prevent illness. Drinking tea on Grain Rain as a prayer for health has gradually become one of the customs associated with the solar term.

Eating Chinese toon at Grain Rain is one of the most eagerly anticipated pleasures of spring in northern China. The folk expression “eating spring” may refer, on the one hand, to the custom of “Biting the Spring” at the Beginning of Spring, and on the other to the northern tradition—especially in old Beijing—of eating tender toon shoots around Grain Rain. This custom has a long history. 《帝京景物略》 records: “谷雨前采椿芽，以汤焯过，用盐渍之，芳辛透骨。” The ancients often paired toon with tofu, arranging purple-red shoots on celadon beside white jade-like tofu, creating what looked like a vivid spring platter brought to life. Some cultivated people even imitated the ancient ritual of “offering celery”, tying toon shoots with red silk and presenting them as gifts, accompanied by the verse: “一寸春心一寸椿，摘来犹带晓露痕。”

Chinese toon also has deep roots in classical writing. 《庄子·逍遥游》 states: “上古有大椿者，以八千岁为春，八千岁为秋。” Folk tradition further preserves the saying: “常食椿芽，百病不沾，万寿无边”—eat toon shoots often and illness will not cling to you, bringing boundless longevity.

Chinese toon is prepared in distinctive ways across northern China. The most classic dish is Chinese Toon with Scrambled Eggs, with bright yellow and green mingling in an intensely fragrant dish. Another favorite is Chinese Toon with Tofu, in which the shoots are blanched and dressed with salt, sesame oil, and other seasonings for a clean, refreshing taste. Yuan Mei wrote in 《随园食单》 that toon mixed with tofu was “到处有之，嗜者尤众”—found everywhere and especially beloved by enthusiasts. Toon may also be preserved in salt: the shoots are rubbed with salt and sealed away, allowing them to be eaten throughout the year. In Baishui, Shaanxi, people also hold a Grain Rain ritual known as “Sacrificing to Cangjie.”

Chinese toon carries rich and layered symbolism. First, “eating spring” and welcoming the season. Gathering and eating toon shoots in spring is itself described as “eating spring.” To eat toon at Grain Rain is almost to swallow the season whole. Second, eating according to the season. A folk saying goes: “雨前香椿嫩如丝，雨后椿芽生木质”—before the rains, toon shoots are tender as silk; afterward, they begin to grow woody. Toon is at its freshest and most delicate around Grain Rain, crisp yet soft and aromatic. It is generally divided into purple and green varieties, with purple shoots often considered superior. After Grain Rain, the shoots gradually toughen and are no longer considered ideal for eating. Third, health and nourishment. Chinese toon is traditionally associated with improving immunity, supporting digestion, regulating qi, relieving diarrhea, nourishing the skin, and providing antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and insecticidal effects. A folk agricultural saying, “三月八，吃椿芽儿”, points to the third lunar month, around Grain Rain, as the prime season for toon shoots.

Wumi Rice originated as a traditional festival food and was already known in the Tang dynasty, when it was also called “Qingjing Rice.” In parts of Jiangsu and Anhui, families traditionally cook black rice using leaves from the Wufan tree around the eighth day of the fourth lunar month. Du Fu wrote in 《赠李白》: “岂无青精饭，使我颜色好”, showing that Qingjing Rice was already widely known in the Tang period. 《本草纲目》 records that Nanzhu leaves could be used to prepare black rice and traditionally attributes to them effects such as strengthening the sinews, replenishing qi and physical strength, lightening the body, brightening the eyes, darkening the hair, and preserving youthful appearance.

In She communities, Wumi Rice is regarded as one of the “Three Treasures of the She.” In places such as Fu’an, Fujian, it is traditionally prepared for the festival of the Third Day of the Third Lunar Month. Among the She, this day is regarded as the birthday of grain. Every household prepares traditional Wumi Rice, and its fragrance drifts through villages. Folk belief holds that after eating it, one need not fear mountain ants while walking in the hills. Another belief says that because the third day of the third month is the birthday of grain, blackening the rice prevents the grain spirit from recognizing it, encouraging the grain to grow willingly and thereby expressing prayers for a good harvest.

In Zhaoxing Dong Village in Guizhou, every household gathers fresh Wumi leaves from the mountains during the Grain Rain festival period. The leaves are pounded, soaked, used to dye the rice, and then cooked into Wumi Rice through a sequence of traditional processes. In the Dong language, the custom is associated with eating black rice and sowing rice seed, embodying both traditional agricultural culture and courtship customs developed through centuries of Dong life.

The principal ingredients of Wumi Rice are Wuren leaves and high-quality glutinous rice. The best leaves are naturally wild, free of rainwater and dew when picked, ideally harvested around eight or nine in the morning to prevent overheating and used within eight hours. The glutinous rice is preferably late-ripening rice grown in cool highland regions, valued for its long growing period and full grains.

To prepare the dish, leaves from the Wufan or Wuren tree are boiled to make a dark infusion. Glutinous rice is soaked in this liquid for half a day, then drained and steamed. Once cooked, Wumi Rice is described by four qualities: “black, glossy, crystalline, and fragrant.” The grains are dark and lustrous, while the aroma of rice is pronounced. Among the She, Wumi Rice is traditionally regarded as both food and medicine.

Wumi Rice carries several layers of cultural meaning. First, dispelling dampness and toxins. In Jiangsu and Zhejiang, dyeing rice with Nanzhu leaves is associated with removing dampness and clearing toxins. Second, praying for a rich harvest. She tradition holds that blackened rice confuses the grain spirit so that it will grow willingly, making the dish a prayer for agricultural abundance. Third, showing respect for grain. Among the Dong, eating Wumi Rice expresses the laboring people’s reverence for staple crops. Fourth, preserving tradition. To ensure that later generations remember how hard-won She rice was, the Third Day of the Third Lunar Month came to be regarded as the birthday of grain. In Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Hubei, Hunan, Jiangxi, Sichuan, Guizhou, and other regions, the ancient custom of eating Wumi Rice during the fourth lunar month is still preserved.

Chinese chives are a typical seasonal vegetable of Grain Rain. The ancients had sayings such as “春初早韭，秋末晚菘” and “春食则香，夏食则臭”, both emphasizing that spring is the finest season for chives. Eating more chives around Grain Rain was traditionally considered beneficial for dispelling cold and replenishing deficiency.

In northeastern China, there is a saying: “清明盒子谷雨面”—at Qingming every household cooks chive pockets, an act called “tasting spring”; at Grain Rain, families prepare wild-vegetable noodle soup, known as “eating the earth’s qi.” In Gaoyou Village of Sanjiang Dong Autonomous County in Guangxi, Grain Rain is even celebrated as a “Chive Festival.” According to Dong custom, every household prepares oil tea at this time, and chives are one of its principal accompaniments. Locally, chives also carry auspicious meanings.

Chinese chives can be prepared in many ways. Classic dishes include Chinese Chives with Scrambled Eggs, Chive Pockets, and Chive Dumplings. In Dong areas, people prepare “Grain Rain Oil Tea” on the day of the solar term, placing chives in each bowl before adding the brewed tea mixture. Chive pockets are simple to make: chopped chives are mixed with minced wood-ear mushrooms, vermicelli, and egg as a filling, enclosed in folded dough, sealed, and pan-cooked until golden on both sides.

Chinese chives carry two principal meanings. First, dispelling cold and replenishing deficiency. Grain Rain weather is often changeable, and chives are traditionally regarded as warming in nature and beneficial for health. Second, lasting a long time. In Chinese, “韭” and “久” are homophones, so eating chives at Grain Rain also symbolizes longevity and enduring happiness. Using chives as dumpling filling at this time is both seasonal and flavorful.

In Fujian, there is a custom of eating spring bamboo shoots on the day of Grain Rain. At this point in the season, bamboo shoots are at their tenderest and are among the late-spring delicacies that should not be missed in southern China.

In earlier times, wealthy households cooked bamboo shoots with oil and meat, while poorer families often had neither. As a result, a saying arose: “有钱侬是侬食笋、无钱侬是笋食侬”—if you have money, you eat the bamboo shoots; if you do not, the bamboo shoots eat you. This vivid Fujian saying reflects the social divide of earlier times through food: the wealthy could pair the shoots with oil and meat, making each bite richer, while the poor boiled them plain and became hungrier the more they ate, as if the shoots themselves were consuming the eater.

At Grain Rain, spring bamboo shoots symbolize “rising higher joint by joint,” continuing the same positive associations found at the Beginning of Spring and the Spring Equinox. As one of the final tender vegetables of spring, they also preserve the lingering spirit of “Biting the Spring”—one last taste of freshness at the very edge of the season.

Around Grain Rain, young women in ancient times were said to make Peach Blossom Wine, also known as “Wine for Preserving the Complexion.” Peach blossoms bloom in late spring, and the period around Grain Rain is when they are at their most abundant. The ancients infused the flowers in alcohol, traditionally valuing them for promoting blood circulation and nourishing the skin. In Shanxi, there was also a custom of eating peach blossom porridge at the end of spring for similar reasons.

Fresh peach petals are selected, washed, and dried, then placed in baijiu or rice wine with an appropriate amount of rock sugar. The mixture is sealed and left to infuse for a period before drinking. The finished wine has a pale pink hue in which floral fragrance and the aroma of alcohol intermingle.

Peach Blossom Wine carries the wish for “preserving beauty and youth.” The ancients believed that peach blossoms could invigorate the blood and nourish the skin, so drinking the wine at Grain Rain symbolized lasting youth and an unfading complexion.

Coastal regions have a custom of eating Mandarin fish at Grain Rain, associated with the idea of “spring freshness replenishing deficiency.” As temperatures rise around Grain Rain, fish become more active, and Mandarin fish reaches a particularly plump and flavorful stage. For fishing communities, Grain Rain is also associated with the tradition of “Sacrificing to the Sea.” A folk saying goes: “过了谷雨，百鱼近岸。” In order to sail safely and return with full holds, fishermen hold sea-offering ceremonies on Grain Rain and pray to the sea deity for protection. This custom remains popular today in places such as Rongcheng in the Jiaodong region of Shandong. The Grain Rain Sea Sacrifice of coastal fishing villages is a traditional prayer for holds overflowing with fish and shrimp.

The most classic preparation for Mandarin fish is steaming, which preserves the natural tenderness and freshness of the flesh. Other well-known preparations include Squirrel-Shaped Mandarin Fish and Red-Braised Mandarin Fish.

The cultural meaning of Mandarin fish lies in “spring freshness replenishing deficiency.” Grain Rain is considered the season when the fish is at its plumpest, and eating it is regarded as a way to replenish nutrients needed by the body in spring. For fishermen, Mandarin fish also serves as a symbol of blessings in sea rituals—holds filled with fish and shrimp are the most direct image of abundance.

In northeastern China, the saying “清明盒子谷雨面” is widely known. At Qingming, every household cooks chive pockets, called “tasting spring”; at Grain Rain, families prepare a pot of noodle soup with wild greens, known as “eating the earth’s qi.”

“Eating the earth’s qi” symbolizes grounding oneself and receiving good fortune. Around Grain Rain, all living things are growing and wild greens are abundant. By eating noodle soup made from these plants, people establish a symbolic connection with the earth, praying for health and the arrival of blessings. It reflects the Chinese dietary philosophy of “the unity of Heaven and humanity”—to eat what grows directly from the soil is to enter into the most immediate conversation with the earth.